The nuptial ceremonies of Egypt—Remembrance of fairy-like scenes—The proceedings at a Mahometan marriage—The marriage of Toussoun—His tastes as an English scholar and admirer of Cooper's novels—Description of one of the most gorgeous weddings ever seen—Splendor equalling that of the Arabian Nights.
HAVING been the guest of the Khedive and of wealthy Pachas at many weddings, I propose to give some description of the hymeneal ceremony and festivities as practised in Mahometan countries among the rich. The first case selected is that of a young officer. The bride was a young maiden from the palace of the Khedive. The usual course is that, when a young man arrives at eighteen, or it may be before, a bride is looked for by a “ khatibeh,” a woman whose regular business it is to search for suitable matches, as Abraham sent emissaries to look for a wife for Isaac. The khatibeh finds one of the age of maturity, usually thirteen, sometimes as young as ten years. Returning, she represents the bride to be as beautiful as an houri, with the eyes of a gazelle and teeth of pearl, and always with more diamonds and riches than she actually possesses. If the bride is acceptable the woman goes back and represents the young man as graceful, beautiful in dress, fond of sweet things, but declares that he cannot enjoy them alone, and that the chosen bride is the only one who can make them tasteful ; she describes him as domestic in his tastes, and says that he lives only to adorn and make his loved one always beautiful ; his sole happiness will be in fondling and caressing her. Both parties give dower, which becomes the sole property of the bride, so that in case of divorce it is bestowed on her. On the day appointed the residence of the bride is brilliantly illuminated, an entertainment is prepared for the lady friends up-stairs, and a sumptuous spread below for the gentlemen.
The bridegroom goes to the mosque to say his prayers surrounded by his friends in crescent form and preceded by a band of music, while great numbers of flambeaux light the way. The prayer over, they return in the same order, playing some favorite love-songs. Nearing the bridal house, the ladies are heard welcoming the groom in their shrill, quavering cry of joy called zaghareet. It is a noise of universal rejoicing with Eastern women, being “ a sharp utterance of the voice and quick, tremulous motion of the tongue ;” its novelty is not unpleasant to a stranger. Soon after the groom goes up-stairs to the harem, which simply means the apartments of the ladies of a Mahometan family. The ladies are all concealed from his view, but the bride, beautifully dressed in her Oriental costume, her face covered with a Cashmere shawl and heavily veiled, is standing with the khatibeh, their mutual friend, in the farther end of a brilliantly illuminated salon surrounded with rich silk divans, in case of wealth, as in this instance. The groom upon seeing her remains at the threshold, after exclaiming “ Allah !” The bride, giving him time to admire the tout ensemble, disappears, and so reappears and retires until she has displayed seven different dresses, each one more elegant than the preceding. I may mention some of these dresses, the description of which was furnished me by a lady. The first consisted of rose silk pantaloons brocaded in gold, with a tunic of similar material, the bosom of the bride hidden under a mass of pearls and diamonds. A belt of massive gold surrounded her figure, a white veil brocaded in gold covered her head and face, leaving the eyes exposed. The wrists, fingers, and neck were ornamented with brilliants, and over all was a gossamer veil.
The next dress was large pantaloons of delicate green satin brocaded with the finest gold, discovering underneath a delicate little rose-colored naked foot imprisoned in violet velvet slippers embroidered in gold. The last dress was a green Turkish embroidered garment, massive gold belt around the waist fastened by a buckle of brilliants, and a rose-colored silk paletot falling in beautiful folds to the knees ; in the middle of the back and at each seam was an embroidered wreath of fine gold, while tassels of tresses of gold were tastefully arranged about the whole. The dress was so arranged as to disclose the neck and breasts, which, being white as snow except where nature always tinges them with rose, were beautifully modelled because always unencumbered with corsets. If the young aspirant is pleased—and how could it be otherwise ?—with all these natural and artistic displays, he advances, of course. The khatibeh receives a present and retires, leaving the pair alone ; the modesty of the bride makes it necessary for her to retain her veil, but after an effort the groom succeeds in unveiling her, and for the first time sees her face and form. He then says, “ In the name of God, the compassionate, the merciful,” and compliments her with the words, “ The night is blessed.” Being pleased, he remains to say a prayer ; otherwise it is proper to refuse the offered beauty, and to retrace his steps, but rarely or never is the bride other than agreeable. The bride is seated on the carpet, and, standing immediately before her, the groom says the prayer. If he is pleased with her charms, the fact is announced to the ladies awaiting in suspense, and the zaghareet (cry of joy) is soon heard. This coming to the men down-stairs, they too are delighted, and the large crowd on the street is equally pleased, so that everybody is happy. The feasting commences, and the awaline, the finest nightingale, is heard warbling at the lattice above, so that her sweetest love-song can be heard by the men below. I have heard on these occasions the most celebrated singer they have, who is called the “ Jenny Lind” of Cairo, and really, in the soft and feeling notes of their peculiar Asiatic melodies, the singing was extremely agreeable to hear for a time. The Arabs listen to its sweetness in breathless delight, and it is now and then suddenly interrupted with one impulse by both men and women, who give expression to their joy with boisterous mirth, as some good joke is perpetrated at the expense of either the bride or groom.
Then follow the Ghawazzee (dancing girls), music, smoking, and supping of coffee. There is unrestrained enjoyment on these occasions. The Arabs resemble grown-up children in their ways, and no people are so easily amused. They are always pleased when a foreigner enters heartily into their mirth, and his surprise at some of their doings particularly delights them.
Presents for the newly-married pair are openly carried through the streets attended with music, and after three days, accompanied by a cavalcade of friends, the bride in a covered carriage goes to the house of the bridegroom. The guardian at the abode of bliss raises the carpet, upon which appropriate verses of the Koran are written ; she stoops, says “ Allah,” crosses the threshold, and becomes an houri under the watchful care of a vigilant mother-in-law.
Of course among the fellaheen a simpler process is observed, yet the story already told is but a type in the domestic life of all classes.
Seven years ago the Khedive, who was a man of business and acquainted with the value of riches, determined to absorb all the immense estates left by Mehemet Ali to his descendants. Including that which he held already, these estates amounted to one fifth of the land of Egypt, with enormous personal wealth added. He had already seized the property of Halim, his uncle, and Mustapha, his brother, and exiled them, with a promise to pay for the confiscated estates. The Khedive had at this time three sons and two marriageable daughters, and there were several young and interesting men and women belonging to other branches of the family equally attractive who possessed a large portion of this property. All these young people, particularly the women, were, for the first time in the social history of the East, well educated and accomplished. There was nothing more natural than that these handsome young people should cement their intimacy by a bond stronger than mere relationship. I think in sentiment they so beautifully harmonized that such sordid considerations as those of foloose (money) never disturbed them. One of them being the heir-apparent to the throne, it was necessary that his nuptials should be celebrated on a scale commensurate with the exalted station and wealth of the parties. It was then that the world was called upon to furnish all that taste and beauty required to give the weddings a brilliancy unheard of, even in the East, and in some respects the powers of Aladdin's lamp were eclipsed by the display of both refined and barbaric splendor, to the end that the common fellah and the prince might enter with heart and spirit into a true Oriental celebration which custom had so often sanctioned. The wedding regalia was something marvellous, and the dinners and suppers exceeded anything the Khedive had previously given. The festivities were more democratic than ever before, as everybody was invited. The richest plate and rarest delicacies, including even sugar-cured hams, contrary to Mahometan law, graced the tables, in order that foreigners as well as natives might be delighted. All that could please the eye or gratify the appetite was in bountiful profusion. These dinners and suppers were often graced by the foreign ladies, who enjoyed both those shared with the gentlemen and those taken with the ladies of the royal harem. The Mahometan lady, being forbidden by the Prophet ever to be seen by any other man than her husband, or some man of nearest kin, was never a participant in company with the men, though the unprofitable pleasure is sometimes accorded, these women of a glance from a hidden corner of their lattice.
Of all the weddings, that which interested me most was that of Toussoun Pacha. It was because he spoke and loved the English language that I knew him better than any other and took a deeper interest in him. These nuptials were very splendid, perhaps more so than any of the others which were then following each other in quick succession. A governess had taught Toussoun English, and among the first books he enjoyed were Cooper's novels. He formed a romantic idea of the Indians, and it was pleasant for him to meet with those who knew them from personal contact. An agreeable gentleman, he was with me a great deal, and I often gratified him with extended accounts of the American savages. Relating incidents of his life, he mentioned that, when a boy, dressing as an Indian chief, he caused great terror among the ladies of his mother's harem. They thought Iblis (the Dark Spirit) had invaded the sanctity of their secluded life. While amusing himself in this way, he fell down a lofty stairway and injured his spine, a mishap from which he never fully recovered, and it was no doubt this accident that shortened his days : he died soon after his marriage with the daughter of the Khedive.
Crossing the Nile and following the broad avenue of the lebbek and acacia trees for a mile, we arrived at a singular-looking Arab building without external architecture, but within luxuriously embellished and the home of refinement and comfort. After visiting Toussoun I can speak of his hearty welcome and true Eastern hospitality. The beautiful Fatima, the second daughter of the Khedive, widow of the prince, is now the sole occupant of this palatial residence.
On the occasion of her marriage, during the splendid fêtes, this light of the harem, a blue-eyed fairy, is said to have dazzled, by the brilliancy of her attire and her marvellous grace, the largest assembly of Arab and foreign ladies ever gathered together in Egypt. Escorted by a bevy of beauties, she walked over cloth of gold, showered over with pieces of gold thrown from concealed hands, on the way through the beautiful Palace of Abdeen to her reception-room. One of the features of the festivities was that Ismail, who had great affection for his daughters, in celebrating this occasion invited a large party of his particular friends, foreign and native, to a private opera. The guests entered an extensive palace adjoining the opera-house at the Palace of Kazr Nil. Upon their arrival they were introduced into a handsomely decorated salon. At the close of this delightful entertainment the party returned to the reception-rooms to find them transformed, as if by magic, into one of the most beautifully set supper-rooms I had ever seen. The delicacies were as agreeably served as the general effect was beautiful, and to add grace to it and to show the pleasure experienced in honor of so interesting an event, the Khedive in person expressed his happiness to each guest. During my long acquaintance with him, I often noticed these touching manifestations of true manly feeling so unusual in Eastern men, and especially in despots, and they impressed those who knew him best in his private relations as real exhibitions of a gentle kind-heartedness.
The next scene, after the rich presents were exhibited, according to custom, was the passage of the bride to her new home. This is done with great ceremony. The procession was preceded by men engaged in mock fights and other amusing demonstrations (formerly it was the custom of these people to run swords through their arms and carry them bleeding through the circuitous march, and to perform many other terrible ceremonies now happily forgotten). Next came several bands of music followed by a battalion of troops in ancient steel-clad armor ; then several regiments of horse and infantry. In advance of the bride were the mother of the Khedive and his queens in their variegated stage-coaches, the bride being inclosed in a carriage covered with Cashmere shawls. This was followed by an innumerable cavalcade of ladies in their best conveyances. The carriages were open, and the marvellous display of lavender, pink, orange, and saffron toilettes, and the wealth of the women, which is always in brilliants and rich jewelry, was something magical. The opportunity offered the women for display is only on such occasions as the marriage of a princess. The procession moving slowly, the spectators who lined the way could form a very good idea of the beauty of those in high life, as the veils were of the finest transparent tissue, through which it was easy to see the fair faces and rosy cheeks of the young beauties. Notwithstanding that their eyes were heightened in brilliancy by the kholol and their hands and fingers were stained with henna, though some were beautiful, yet there were many who could not be called so. They were of all colors, from snowy white to dark ebony ; many had blue eyes, and not a few had golden hair, now and then shaded by a deep red. Along the course silver money was thrown to the expectant Arabs, provisions from camels distributed, and buffaloes killed for the numerous poor. Thus the curious procession wended its way through the crowded streets of Cairo to the home of the fair Fatima.
The closing scene of all these festivities was a grand ball at the Geezeerah Palace, the residence of the Khedive when a prince. As many as 5000 guests assisted at this fête, mostly the foreign population of Egypt, and the numerous “ strangers sojourning in the land,” who were attracted to witness the marvellous scene of variegated lights and flowery beauty in which these Eastern people excel ; these lights extended over the iron bridge across the Nile and through the broad avenues, around the vast garden surrounding this palace, in which one was lost in the blaze after entering it. The vestibule and the marble stairway with their Parian statues and rare exotics, lured the guest with delight into the great assemblage of men and women in the magnificent salons. The flash of light upon the frescoed ceilings and paintings, the beautiful mantels of various-colored marble and moresque windows and doors, made it an agreeable scene for the stranger, and one which he would keep long in remembrance. Behind the divan of the Khedive were two large vases of the richest Sèvres, with admirable likenesses on them of Napoleon and Eugénie. Traversing the grand salons, now a gay and festive scene, at the farther end of the palace the attention of the observer was arrested by the apartments of the French Empress Eugénie, now dimly lighted, which were so tastefully fitted up for her on the occasion of the opening of the Suez Canal. A melancholy recollection now shadowed them in the great shadow of the unfortunate Empress. A blaze of fireworks of wondrous beauty closed these enchanting scenes, whose splendor is rarely matched in any country. During these celebrations there was, for the invited guests in the palaces of the Khedive and his family, and surrounding them for the special pleasure of the fellaheen, a fairy-like display that requires the delirium of a poet to picture it in its lavish waste and extravagance.